Edenton
Dining Spots

The pickings are good but rather slim hereabouts.

Waterman’s Grill
427 South Broad St.

The most versatile restaurant in town is this nautical haunt in a brick storefront near the foot of Broad Street. Dining is on two floors amid brick walls, covered with nautical photos and artifacts, a spiral staircase in the center and a paneled bar at the end.

It’s a lively, pleasing setting for such seafood specialties as crab cakes with hushpuppies, the waterman’s trio (steamed crabmeat, shrimp and scallops), fried shrimp and fried oysters. Cashew-crusted tilapia with beurre blanc, cajun tuna shrimp, and shrimp and crawfish étouffée were specials the night we dined. We tried the last, an assertive concoction served over rice. The meal comes with steamed broccoli or two vegetables from a selection of usual suspects. The waitress talked us into the specialty steamed broccoli – "it’s good, and something green." It arrived on a side plate covered with a big saucer and a bowl of hollandaise sauce, with a saw-tooth knife for cutting. The ice water contained a slice of lemon; the crusty roll came without butter. The short wine list is quite good and nicely priced in the teens.

Crab bites, tuna bites, hush puppies, chilled crab dip with crackers and aforementioned steamed broccoli comprise most of the appetizers. Seafood is available from a raw bar. Featured desserts are "liquor milkshakes," topped with whipped cream. The bill comes with a chocolate mint.

Material excerpted from Inn Spots & Special Places in the Southeast, by Nancy and Richard Woodworth. Copyright 2000.

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