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Beaufort Historic Tours. Old Beaufort is laid out in a grid pattern like Savannah, with an occasional block or street that was never developed. Unlike Savannah’s, these are not public squares but private parks. Most seem to belong to the adjacent properties. They were left open to maximize the breeze and provide a water vista, as indicated by the carved wooden signs at the end of many a street or alley: "This view preserved by the City of Beaufort." Actually there’s not much to see besides marshes and water, and the adventurous visitor gets a feeling of trespassing. The densest concentration of Federal, Georgian and Greek Revival houses is found on The Point, east of Carteret Street. Beaufort’s oldest neighborhood, it’s rimmed by water on three sides. About five dozen historic houses, most built with cotton profits, are of exceptional architectural distinction. Many have large yards and elaborate gardens, well screened behind thick greenery. An early morning walk through the area is delightful if somewhat haunting, with birds twittering, dogs barking, cats lurking and mysterious looking houses draped in spanish moss. Of particular interest are the substantial bayfront properties of the Fripps, the Verdiers, the Barnwells et al., variously called The Castle, Tidewater, Marshlands, the Oaks and Tidalholm. Most were used as film sites. From the Point, curving Bay Street runs west along the river. Its shops and mansions are an elegant front line, behind which lie narrow streets flanked by smaller houses and churches. Behind the downtown shops is the Henry C. Chambers Waterfront Park, a shady expanse of green with a playground, landscaped green and harbor promenade. Cruise ships, shrimp trawlers and sailboats dock here periodically. Water Tours. The two-level Islander excursion boat, sailing daily from Waterfront Park, takes up to 125 passengers on river excursions and entertainment cruises. Two smaller outfits offer dolphin watching, environmental tours, sailing charters and coastal excursions from the Downtown Marina. Historic Sights. Guides bring history to life in The John Mark Verdier House, 801 Bay St., a Federal-style house museum built about 1790 by a leading merchant/planter. The Marquis de Lafayette was entertained here. During the Civil War, the house served as Union Army headquarters. It’s open Tuesday-Saturday 11 to 4; admission $4. The Beaufort Museum is housed on the top floor of the 1798 Beaufort Arsenal at 713 Craven St. The arsenal is a tan, fortress-like structure built for the Beaufort Volunteer Artillery about the time the sea island cotton debuted and Beaufort entered its golden era. Among the exhibits of local memorabilia are Indian artifacts, Revolutionary and Civil War relics, and decorative arts. It’s open daily except Wednesday and Sunday, 10 to 5; admission $2. St. Helena’s Episcopal Church, 501 Church St., dates to 1712 and rises above interesting grave sites in the churchyard. The 1813 Secession House, 1113 Craven St., is where South Carolina’s ordinance of secession from the Union was initiated. Shopping. Bay Street and some of its intersecting streets have interesting stores and galleries. Low Country paintings by Nancy Ricker Rhett and bird carvings by William Rhett are featured at Rhett Gallery. Watercolorist Barbara Shipman shows her works at Shipman Art Gallery. Ceramic sculptures by Suzanne Longo and paintings by Eric Longo are displayed at Longo Gallery. Local artists also are shown at Bay Street Gallery and Gallery One. Juxtaposition features artwork, ceramics, handpainted furniture and gifts. Waterside Place offers gifts, gourmet foods and home accessories. Bay Street Outfitters carries fishing gear, travel goods, clothing and even cigars. Rossignol’s is the place for decorative accessories. china, crystal and bridal gifts. Plumage is an elegant women’s boutique. Fine linens and accessories are sold at In High Cotton. A Tisket A Tasket is a nifty garden shop and gallery. Finders Keepers stocks three rooms of collectibles. Collectibles, crafts and gifts also are found at Southern Connections and The Craftseller. Timeless toys for children of all ages are stocked at Boombears. Firehouse Books and Espresso Bar serves up coffee, sandwiches and books with a Southern accent in restored, atmospheric firehouse. Cravings by the Bay offers Southern specialty foods. Extra-Special The Gullah Culture. Ancestral traditions of early African-Americans endure in the Sea Islands beyond Beaufort, especially on St. Helena Island. The Gullah language, a Creole blend of European and African tongues, arose in the holding pens of Africa’s slave coast and matured on the isolated plantations of the Low Country. Penn Center, Martin Luther King Jr. Drive, St. Helena Island. Intricate Gullah handwoven sea-grass baskets and other wares are sold throughout the area. The Low Country’s famed Hallelujah Singers, the lively choir in Forrest Gump, tell the Gullah story through song and dance, performing in their home area as well as around the country. The Gullah House, 761 Sea Island Pkwy., St. Helena Island. Material excerpted from Inn Spots & Special Places in the Southeast, by Nancy and Richard Woodworth. Copyright 2000. Wood Pond Press E-mail feedback to: Home
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