Key West
Dining Spots

Key West has more than 150 restaurants, but, according to locals in the know, only a dozen or so worthy of the name. The problem for the visitor is that, except for a few, there is little consensus on precisely which ones those dozen are. Be advised: the best are far from the touristy establishments around lower Duval Street and busy Mallory Square .

Cafe Marquesa
600 Fleming St .

Tops on most lists for fine dining is this stylish, 50-seat cafe in a corner of The Marquesa Hotel. The intimate, L-shaped room with coffered ceiling has stippled yellow walls, tall windows, rich mahogany molding and four large mahogany mirrors making the room seem bigger. 

A wonderful trompe-l'oeil kitchen scene surrounds an opening into the actual kitchen, where executive chef Susan Ferry prepares award-winning "food of the Americas ," a blending of cuisines. Her menu changes nightly. Typical main courses are macadamia-crusted yellowtail snapper, buttermilk-marinated hog snapper with pomegranate vinaigrette, roasted duck breast with red curry-coconut sauce, and rack of Austalian lamb with a compote of roasted bananas and papaya. Exotic accompaniments vary with the dish. 

You might start with a trio of the day's soups, Key West seafood dumplings in sake miso broth, a cconch and blue crab cake with creole tartar sauce or salmon tostada with habañero salsa, crème fraîche and caviar. The dessert of choice is key lime napoleon with tropical fruit. North and South American wines are featured.

(305) 292-1244. Entrées, $27 to $40. Dinner nightly, 6 to 11, 6:30 to 11 in summer. 

Pisces
1007 Simonton St .

This highly rated restaurant appears to share a building with Duffy's Steak and Lobster House. But the similarity ends there. Formerly known as Café  des Artistes, the small and intimate French café has evolved into Pisces, a more contemporary seafood restaurant.with an artistic flair reflecting the Andy Warhol.artworks on the walls.

Longtime owner Timothy Ryan's renovated Pisces continues to offer Café des Artistes specialties, including its award-winning lobster tango mango (sautéed lobster flamed in cognac), its most famous signature dish for 20 years. Other favorites incloude sake-glazed ahi tuna, champagne-braised black grouped, yellowtail snapper atocha, raspberry duckling and steak au poivre.

To start, consider the specialty duck foie gras, a roulade of goat cheese and smoked salmon, seafood in puff pastry or escargots.  Classic French desserts follow suit.

(305) 294-7100. Entrées, $29 to $44. Dinner nightly, 6 to 11.

Louie's Backyard
700 Waddell Ave.

This was our favorite Key West restaurant for lunch at our first visit in 1984, a year after it opened, and it remains so today. Little has changed in the interim – how could it, given the idyllic back terrace tiered from the dining room open to the rear down open decks beneath a flowering mahoe tree to the tropical Afterdeck Bar beside the ocean? It's one of the most attractive restaurant settings anywhere. 

Locals caution that the food is inconsistent and the service arrogant at dinner, but everyone seems to love this high-end place for a leisurely lunch. Perhaps the staff has gotten the message. At a weekday lunch they were inordinately apologetic for delays in taking our order and delivering a stellar napoleon of grilled vegetables with asiago cheese and a superior grilled sirloin salad with roasted garlic vinaigrette, maytag blue cheese and mixed greens. Conch fritters with hot pepper jelly and wasabi accompanied. 

A subsequent lunch produced a fine she-crab soup, shrimp salad and a fancy pasta dish with seafood and shellfish. The "Not Just Any Fish San wich" turned out to be sautéed snapper with creole remoulade on an onion roll. 

The piña coladas and margaritas here are considered he best in town, although ours were nothing exceptional. But the ocean view is, especially at lunchtime when all the little boats are skittering about, parasailers soar overhead and a cruise ship departs for points unknown. 

The dinner menu yields dishes like "snapper behind bars," wrapped in sliced potatoes with spiced mango-rum sauce, sweet and sour sweetbreads with sticky rice and tat soi, and poussin roasted under a brick. 

(305) 294-1061. Entrées, $25 to $39. Lunch daily except September, 11:30 to 3. Dinner nightly, 7 to 10. 

Alice 's Key West Restaurant
1114 Duval St.

The world cuisine of chef-owner Alice Weingarten is highly rated. We tried to eat in this pastel pink and green box-like confection, but faced a half-hour wait for a table near a window late on an otherwise slow Tuesday night and refused to subject ourselves to the claustrophobic though convivial atmosphere. The walls and pillars are painted in pastel shades, and floral cloths top the close-together tables. But oh, for a breath of fresh air -- when the windows open onto Duval Street .

Alice 's menu is our kind of menu, original and categorized by small plates, cool plates, large plates and sweet endings. It’s perfect for grazing. We could make a meal from such exotic small plates as New World Cuban pork empanada, sticky hoisin duck shumi and Moroccan gyoza dumplings. Heartier eaters are sated by "Aunt Alice's magic meatloaf," if they don't first succumb to pistachio-crusted grouper with coconut rice, Cuban-style mojo marinated ostrich or Brazilian churrasco skirt steak.

Black bottom key lime pie and tropical fruit shortcake with passionfruit chantilly cream are refreshing endings to the assertive fare.

(305) 292-5733. Entrées, $22.95 to $37.75. Lunch and brunch daily, 10 to 2. Dinner nightly, 6 to 11. 

Latitudes Beach Café
Sunset Key, Key West

Dine under the stars at this open-air restaurant beside the Gulf on exclusive Sunset Key. An eight-minute shuttle boat ride takes you from the Key West Hilton to its deluxe cottage colony and residential complex on a private island. The restaurant is operated by the Hilton for cottage guests and residents, but is open to the public as well. 

Tables are on flooring beside the water and on the beach. Part of the dining area is covered by awnings and may be shielded by windscreens. Tiki torches are lit at night, and the ambiance is magical. 

The contemporary dinner menu is decidedly upscale. You might start with crispy lobster-crab cakes with citrus aioli and mango caviar, oak wood-smoked salmon with tobiko caviar and toast points, or goat cheese and portobello mushroom in phyllo with frizzled greens.

  Main courses include macadamia nut-crusted grouper,  lobster and scallop tempura with Caribbean fruit salsa, pan-seared yellowtail snapper, grilled veal chop with thyme-maple jus and beef tenderloin with gorgonzola-scallion butter.

The breakfast and lunch menus are similarly innovative. "Frozen libations" are the drinks of choice.

(305) 292-5394. Entrées, $22.95 to $49.95. Breakfast daily, 7 to 11. Lunch, 11 to 5. Dinner, 5 to 10 or 11. Reservations required.

Café Solé
1029 Southard St .

Off the beaten path is this delightful bit of Provence , a flower-bedecked upscale "shack" where chef-owner John Correa and his wife Judy have been delighting those in the know with fine French-Caribbean fare for fourteen years.

 There's a small dining area inside, but most seating is in a trellis-bordered, semi-open area that looks to be straight out of the South of France, where the Boston-born chef trained.  A glass roof, tarpaulins and outdoor heaters protect patrons from the elements.

Our party reveled in the variety of the dinner menu, offering everything from tapas to entrées to desserts. Among tapas we loved the tuna tataki, the beet salad with goat cheese and the lamb chops with truffle oil-infused mashed potatoes. The latter three chops were a hefty sample of a main course of rack of lamb, about eight juicy racks that proved enough for two to share..The signature "hog snapper," locally caught by divers and paired with a roasted red pepper zabaglione, turned out a winner, as did the grilled local shrimp with a vanilla bean and saffron sauce. Desserts included a stellar key lime pie.

(305)294-0230. Entrées, $25 to $34. Brunch and lunch, Sunday to Friday 9 to 2. Dinner nightly, from 5:30.

Santiago 's Bodega
207 Petronia St .

Surprisingly suave and sleek is this relative newcomer in the midst of the roosters and riffraff of the Bahamia Village . And, blessed relief, the fare is tapas  -- a variety of cold and hot small plates that would be anathema to the mainstream tourist crowd.

So we were disappointed to find that we could not be served the winter midweek night our party of four had marked off a dozen selections for takeout back to our private villa and poolside patio. "Too busy and fully booked," the kitchen advised after a hostess had  suggested we show up during down time between 4 and 5 and try our luck. So we missed out on the likes of smoked salmon carpaccio, yellowfin seviche, herbed grouper, lamb patties, chicken skewers, prosciutto and provolone croquettes and mini quesadillas.

The choices were tantalizing. But the fulfillment was not meant to be.  

(305) 296-7691. Tapas, $5 to $11. Lunch and dinner daily, 11 to 10.

Seven Fish
632 Oliva St .

Some of the best food in town is served at affordable prices in this 440-seaqt corner roadhouse. Sculptures of seven fish hang in a window. Red molded sc`hool chairs are at yellow tables beneath a raftered ceiling. A bar at the end holds vintage wines.

All is very small and intimate for a with-it crowd that applauds simple but stylish cooking. The menu offers meat loaf with "real mashed potatoes" and grilled vegetable egg foo yung among more substantial fare. Typical are grilled mahi mahi with black pepper dijon, shrimp scampi with asparagus spears, crab and shiitake mushroom pasta, banana chicken with caramelized walnuts and a mixed grill of skewered chicken, shrimp and vegetables. Salads come in small and large sizes, and the three-cheese caesar can be ordered with grilled chicken or crab cake. 

Start with seafood seviche, a fish taco with scallion mayo or tropical shrimp salsa. Finish with bananas flambé, mango cobbler or sweet potato pie.

(305) 296-2777. Entrées. $11 to $27. Dinner by reservation, nightly except Tuesday 6 to 10.

A&B Lobster House
700 Front St .

A fixture for 51 years, the A&B Lobster House was vastly upgraded in 1998 by local restaurateur Paul Tripp. 

Already the owner of three waterfront eateries along Restaurant Row in the historic Key West Bight marina area, he saw the need for an upscale seafood restaurant. When the nearby A&B became available, he took over and transformed the upstairs into an elegant, 200-seat dining area with indoor and outdoor seating along the water. Adjacent is Berlin ’s, a cocktail lounge and cigar bar. Downstairs is a smaller, casual oyster bar called Alonzo’s. 

The with-it fare gets rave reviews. A house specialty is black grouper oscar stuffed with crabmeat and stone crabs, topped with mango béarnaise and served with asparagus and coconut-pecan rice. Citrus grilled dolphin, grilled Key West pink shrimp, cioppino pasta, grilled veal chop and steak au poivre are other favorites. Maine and Florida lobster comes in seven variations, including pasta, newburg, and surf and turf. Stews, pan roasts and bisques are featured starters. How about an oyster pan roast with oysters, leeks, chili sauce and paprika? Or roasted saffron and ginger mussels?

(305) 294-5880. Entrées, $27.50 to $42,50. Berlin’s, dinner, Monday-Saturday 6 to 11; Sunday brunch, 11 to 4. Alonzo’s, Monday-Saturday 11 to 11.

 

Material updated in 2008 from Inn Spots & Special Places in the Southeast, by Nancy and Richard Woodworth. Copyright 2000.

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