Camden
Diversions

Water pursuits. Any number of boat cruises on Penobscot Bay leave from the Camden landing, where there are benches for viewing the passing boat parade. The famed windjammers are a class apart, and lately some have been giving morning and afternoon cruises, lunch and dinner cruises and even overnight trips in addition to their longer excursions. For more cruises or ferry rides to the islands, go to Rockland or Lincolnville Beach (a favorite excursion is the ferry trip to Islesboro). The Lincolnville Beach is popular for swimming. A more secluded, picturesque setting is the little-known Laite Memorial Beach with treed lawns sloping down to the water, a small beach, picnic tables and old-fashioned fireplaces off Bay View Street.

Inland pursuits. Some of the East Coast's most scenic hiking is available on trails in Camden Hills State Park. Mount Megunticook is the highest of the three mountains that make up the park and the second highest point on the Eastern Seaboard. If you're not up to hiking, be sure to drive the toll road up Mount Battie, an easy one-mile ride. The view is worth the $1-per-person toll. More rugged hiking is available on the trails of Camden Snow Bowl overlooking Hosmer Pond. A scenic drive is out Route 52 to Megunticook Lake, an island-studded lake that emerged eerily from the clouds the first foggy afternoon we saw it. A walking tour of Camden and a bicycle or car tour of Camden and adjacent Rockport are available through the Camden-Rockport Historical Society. A favorite drive or bicycle tour heads southeast out of Camden on Bay View Street out to Beauchamp Point and curves along Mechanic Street into Rockport. It returns to Camden via Chestnut Street. Some of the area’s estates may be seen, along with belted Galloway cows grazing at Aldermere Farm.

Cultural pursuits. Summer entertainment, from band concerts to vaudeville, is provided periodically in the outdoor Bok Amphitheater next to the town library, just a few hundred feet from the harbor. The Camden Civic Theatre presents plays in the restored brick Camden Opera House. Classical and chamber music concerts are offered year-round at the Rockport Opera House by Bay Chamber Concerts. The Conway Homestead and Cramer Museum, a mile south of town along Route 1, includes a restored 18th-century farmhouse, a barn displaying antique carriages and sleighs, a blacksmith shop and an 1820 maple sugar house. The complex, run by the Camden-Rockport Historical Society, is open Tuesday-Friday 10 to 4 in July and August.

Shopping pursuits. Camden is a mecca for sophisticated shopping, and all kinds of interesting specialty stores and boutiques pop up every year, particularly along Bay View Street. On Main Street, Planet is a world marketplace with a trendy selection of gifts, housewares, accessories, medicinal herbals, toys, children’s things and more, many with a nature or planetary theme. Planet’s former location across the street is now Emporium, featuring contemporary women’s apparel with a worldly theme. A traditional favorite for men’s and women’s clothing is the House of Logan. Gourmet foods and wines augment the traditional flowers at Lily, Lupine & Fern. Surroundings offers “durable goods” for home and garden. The Smiling Cow, a venerable gift shop with a myriad of Maine items, has a great view from its rear porch over the Megunticook River, which ripples down the rocks toward the harbor; you can take in the picturesque scene while sipping complimentary coffee or tea between shopping forays. The Right Stuff speaks for itself with home accessories and women’s wear.

Along Bay View Street, The Owl and the Turtle is an excellent, many-roomed bookstore on two floors. Wild Birds Unlimited has an amazing collection of bird feeders, carved birds, birdsong tapes and the like. Custom-dyed cotton clothing is featured at Cotton Garden. Bed and bath accessories and lingerie are the forte of Theo B. Camisole & Co. The Admiral's Buttons has preppy clothing and sailing attire. We bought a handcrafted Maine wooden bucket for use as a planter from Once a Tree, which also has great clocks, toys, bracelets and everything else made from wood. Unique One stocks a great selection of sweaters done by local knitters.


Vesper Hill Chapel,
Calderwood Lane, Rockport. Built of pine and resembling a Swiss chalet, this non-denominational outdoor chapel atop a rock ledge affords a great view of Penobscot Bay. It's the legacy of Helene Bok, who fulfilled a dream of building a chapel that would open out onto the world on the site of a summer estate-turned-hotel that was destroyed by fire in 1954. Mrs. Bok, friends and children created a garden showplace and a chapel sanctuary for the ages. Up to 50 people can be seated for informal meditation on Sunday mornings. Not wishing to intrude on the Quaker Meeting we came upon, we bided our time in the wonderful formal perennial and Biblical herb gardens below. More than 60 wedding ceremonies take place here annually, but the casual visitor can stop by to enjoy peace, quiet and beauty any other time from mid-April through October.
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Extra-Special

Farnsworth Art Museum and the Wyeth Center, 356 Main St., Rockland. 

What began as a modest art museum and library in 1948 has blossomed into one of the nation’s leading regional art museums. With the Andrew Wyeth family deciding to make it the repository for their Maine-related works, the Farnsworth doubled its size in 1998 and again in 2000. It has sprawled across five new or restored buildings into a “campus” covering two and one-half city blocks. The heart of the complex remains the original Georgian-style brick museum and library funded by the estate of Lucy Copeland Farnsworth, which grew to the point where it now holds one of the best collections of Maine art in the world. The opening of the Wyeth Center in 1998 in the former Pratt Memorial Methodist Church put Rockland on the art map nationally. The Jamien Morehouse Wing in 2000 was the icing on the cake. Occupying the site of a former five-and-dime store, it offers more gallery space for the growing collection (now 9,000 works) as well as an excellent museum shop fronting on Main Street, which has inspired the opening of more galleries, shops and restaurants nearby. Despite rapid growth, the Farnsworth retains a sense of the personal. It is reflected in the exhibit descriptions and catalogs and is obvious in the tours of the museum’s Olson House on the nearby Cushing peninsula, made famous by the Wyeth painting Christina’s World. Dudley Rockwell, longtime Olson neighbor and Andrew’s brother-in-law, gives tours and lectures there.

(207) 596-6457. www.farnsworthmuseum.org. Open daily 9 to 5, Memorial Day to Columbus Day; closed Sunday morning and Monday rest of year. Adults, $9.

 
Material excerpted from Inn Spots & Special Places in the Northeast, by Nancy and Richard Woodworth. Copyright 2004.

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