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The Kennebunks The picturesque coast, which varies here in a relatively short stretch from sandy beach to rugged and rockbound, offers a variety of leisure pursuits. Beaches. Gooch’s, a curving half-mile crescent, and Kennebunk are two beaches with surf west of town (parking by permit, often provided by innkeepers). The fine silvery sand at Goose Rocks Beach looks almost tropical and the waters are protected. Beachcombers find starfish and sand-dollar shells here in early morning. More secluded is Parson’s Beach, a natural sandy strand set among the tall grasses and undeveloped area next to the Rachel Carson Wildlife Refuge. The beaches are at their uncrowded best at non-peak periods and early or late in the day. Parson’s Way. A marker opposite the landmark Colony Hotel notes the land given to the people of Kennebunkport so that “everyone may enjoy its natural beauty.” Sit on the benches, spread a blanket on a rock beside the ocean, or walk out to the serene little chapel of St. Ann’s Episcopal Church by the sea. Ocean Avenue. Continue past Parson’s Way to Spouting Rock, where the incoming tide creates a spurting fountain as waves crash between two ragged cliffs, and Blowing Cave, another roaring phenomenon within view of Walker Point and the George Bush summer compound. Go on to Cape Porpoise, the closest thing to a fishing village hereabouts, with a working lobster pier and a picturesque harbor full of islands. History. The Kennebunkport Historical Society has its attractions: the 1853 Greek Revival Nott House nicknamed White Columns, the Pasco Exhibit Center with changing historical exhibits and the 1899 one-room Town House School with exhibits of local and maritime heritage. But inland Kennebunk is more obviously historic: There’s a treasure behind every door on the block at the 1825 Brick Store Museum, which has an excellent collection of decorative and fine arts, Federal period furniture, artifacts and textiles. It mounts a couple of major exhibits each year (photos of the great fire of 1947 were on at one visit) and offers architectural walking tours of Kennebunk’s National Register historic district. Summer Street (Route 35) running south of downtown toward Kennebunkport is considered one of the architecturally outstanding residential streets in the nation; the 1803 Taylor-Barry House is open for tours, and the aptly named yellow-with-white-frosting Wedding Cake House (1826) is a sight to behold. Arts and Crafts. Its scenery has turned Kennebunkport into a mecca for artisans. The Art Guild of the Kennebunks numbers more than 50 resident professionals as members and claims the Kennebunks are the largest collective community of fine art on the East Coast. Art and galleries are everywhere, but are concentrated around Kennebunkport’s Dock Square and the wharves to the southeast. The Ebb Tide Gallery shows more than twenty artists in a stylish setting overlooking the Kennebunkport River basin, just across the bridge from Dock Square. Local, regional and national artists are represented across the street at the Gallery on Chase Hill. More than 105 artists show at Mast Cove Galleries, a lovely Greek Revival home and barn next to the library on Route 9. Spectacular contemporary American glass is shown at Silica, a knockout gallery in Cape Porpoise. Also in Cape Porpoise is The Wright Gallery, where 31 artists display on two floors of a 19th century post and beam house. For a change of pace, visit the grounds of the Franciscan Monastery (where, as some savvy travelers know, spare and inexpensive bedrooms are available) and St. Anthony’s Shrine. The shrines and sculpture include the towering piece that adorned the facade of the Vatican pavilion at the 1964 New York World’s Fair. Shopping. Dock Square and, increasingly, Kennebunk’s Lower Village across the river are full of interesting stores, everything from the Lavender Creek Trading Co. for Provence-inspired gifts and home accessories to the Port Canvas Co., with all kinds of handsome canvas products. Crowning the main corner of Dock Square is the decidedly upscale Compliments, “the gallery for your special lifestyle.” It features lots of glass, including lamps and egg cups, trickling fountains and cute ceramic gulls, each with its own personality. We liked the contemporary crafts at Kennebunkport Arts and Plum Dandy, the nature-inspired jewelry and tableware at Lovell Designs, and the Asian ceramics at East and Design. Check out the birdhouses made of hats along with clothing and whimsical gifts at Carrots & Co., whose theme is “because life’s too short for boring stuff.” Digs, Divots and Dogs is a gift shop catering to those interests. Alano Ltd. and Carla’s Corner have super clothes. Lilly Pulitzer designs are featured at Snappy Turtle. The splendid Kennebunk Book Port, Abacus, the Good Earth Pottery, The Whimsy Shop, Maison et Jardin and the shops at Union Square and Village Marketplace are other favorites. Rachel Carson National Wildlife Refuge, Route 9, Kennebunkport. A mile-long interpretive trail through saltwater marshes and adjacent grasslands leads one through an area rich in migratory and resident wildlife. The 5,000-acre reserve is named for the environmental pioneer who summered in Maine and conducted research in the area for several of her books. The trail, “paved” with small gravel, and boardwalks lead through tranquil woods until – just when you begin to wonder what all the fuss is about – the vista opens up at the sixth marker and a boardwalk takes you out over wetlands and marsh. Cormorants, herons and more are sighted here regularly, and benches allow you to relax as you take in the scene. An even better view of the ocean in the distance is at Marker 7, the Little River overlook. The widest, best view of all is near the end of the loop at Marker 11. If you don’t have time for the entire trail, ignore the directional signs and go counter-clockwise. You’ll get the best view first, though you may not see much wildlife. (207) 646-9226. Open daily, dawn to dusk.
Donation. Material excerpted from Inn Spots & Special Places in New England, by Nancy and Richard Woodworth. Copyright 2004. Wood Pond Press E-mail feedback to: Home
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