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Mid-Coast Maine By Nancy and Richard Woodworth The sandy beaches of Southern Maine yield to Maine's more typical rockbound coast north of Portland. There are those who say that this is where the real Maine starts. The coastline becomes more jagged, its fingers protruding like tentacles toward the sea between inlets, rivers and bays. Poke down remote byways to Bailey Island, Popham Beach, Westport, Christmas Cove and Pemaquid Point. You'll find life quieter here and the distances between points long and roundabout. One look at the map as you eye the shore across the inlet and you'll understand why the natives say "you can't get theah from heah" – except by boat. Here also are two of Maine's leading tourist destinations – busy Boothbay Harbor, a commercial fishing village surrounded by a choice and remote shoreline beyond and on either side, and upscale Camden, where the mountains meet the sea and the windjammer fleet sets sail from the colorful harbor. These two resort areas have long been favored by visitors, whose arrival has produced the inevitable influx of souvenir shops and golden arches nearby. But the Mid-coast's increasing gentrification also has attracted new and better restaurants, inns and B&Bs, and – a surprise at our latest visit – a little landmark called Lighthouse Espresso, "serving Downeast coffee," a beacon amid the tickytack of Route 1 above Rockland. Side by side with touristy Boothbay and Camden are postcard fishing hamlets like Ocean Point and Port Clyde. The busy towns of Brunswick, Bath and Rockland co-exist with salt-washed villages like Rockport and South Harpswell. Before you head Down East, tarry along Maine's mid-coast. Material excerpted from Getaways for Gourmets in the Northeast, by Nancy and Richard Woodworth. Copyright 2001. Wood Pond Press E-mail feedback to: Home
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