Oxford Hills and Lakes
Dining Spots

The Oxford House Inn
548 Main St., Fryeburg

Opened in 1985, this 1913 in-town country inn is run quite personally by John and Phyllis Morris, formerly of North Conway , whose dinner fare commands a wide reputation.

Seventy-five people can be seated on white chairs (their tops hand-stenciled by Phyllis) on the rear porch with a stunning view of Mount Kearsarge North, in the former living room called the Parlor, and along the screened front piazza. Tables are set with delicate pink crystal, heavy silver and Sango Mystique peach china, with candles in clay pots and napkins tied like neckties. Green floral wallpaper, Phyllis's handmade curtains and draperies, and handsome paneling enhance the parlor.

The menu, which changes seasonally, comes inside sheet music from the 1920s. Dinner begins with complimentary homemade crackers and a cream cheese spread, a salad of fresh greens and fruits (blueberries and watermelon), perhaps with a tomato-tarragon dressing or a cranberry vinaigrette, and fresh nut and fruit breads. Starters might be escargots, hot buttered brie, a house pâté and Maine crab crêpes. Crayfish bisque, cream of asparagus and chilled peach were among summer soups when we visited.

The eight entrées include champagne-poached salmon, scallops à l’orange in puff pastry, grilled pork tenderloin with plum-cinnamon port sauce, veal madeira, rack of lamb with mint-apple chutney, and pan-fried venison flamed with sherry and port and finished with currant and guava jelly, dried cherries, cloves and cinnamon. John does most of the cooking, but the desserts are Phyllis's: fruit trifles, cheesecake terrine, praline truffle, chocolate mousse, spumoni and frozen peach yogurt at one visit. Her bread pudding with peaches and blueberries is highly acclaimed.

(207) 935-3442 or (800) 261-7206. Entrées, $25 to $29. Dinner by reservation, 6 to 9, nightly in summer and fall, Thursday-Sunday rest of year.

 Lake House
Routes 35 & 37, Waterford

Almost since it reopened in 1984, the restaurant at Waterford 's first inn has been making culinary waves in western Maine . A changing menu of creative regional cuisine, flaming desserts and an award-winning wine list are offered by chef-owner Michael Myers. Periodic wine-tasting dinners attract gourmands from near and far.

Each dining room is pretty as a picture. The small front room has burgundy patterned wallpaper above pale green woodwork, burgundy carpeting, shelves of glass and china, a collection of bird paintings and a picture of puffins over the fireplace. The larger rear pine-paneled dining room has a remarkable corkscrew collection, linen-clad tables set with two large wine glasses at each setting and oriental rugs on the floor. Patrons enjoy the antics of birds at window feeders behind a couple of one-way mirrors.

On a mild summer night, we chose to eat outside on the screened front porch. The Rhode Island squid sautéed with spinach ravioli and garlic sauce and the signature duck liver pâté seasoned with apples and grand marnier were excellent starters.

A dollop of kiwi sorbet preceded the entrées, a generous portion of sliced lamb sauced with curry and vodka and Michael’s signature roast duckling in a sauce of peppered blackberries and red wine. Sliced potatoes, cucumbers, tomatoes and pickled corn accompanied. Lobster madagascar in puff pastry, feta-stuffed chicken with Mediterranean sauce, osso buco of pork, filet mignon and fresh salmon filleted on site and served with tequila-lime butter were other choices.

For dessert, we succumbed to a parfait pie and a light chocolate-espresso mousse served on a grand marnier sauce. Bananas foster and cherries jubilee are flamed tableside for two.

(207) 583-4182 or (800) 223-4182. Entrées, $19 to $26. Dinner nightly, 5:30 to 9, fewer days in off-season, weekends in winter. Closed April and November.

 Pleasant Point Inn
Pleasant Point Road, Center Lovell

New management reopened the restaurant at this lakefront inn to popular acclaim in 2003 after it had been closed for several years in favor of weddings and functions.

Jeff and Nancy Lamarche won plaudits for dinners, now served in the inn’s former lodge-style living room with a fieldstone fireplace and a pine-paneled banquet room used for overflow.

Their chef prepares a continental/American menu ranging from lobster and scallop newburg to steak au poivre. Baked stuffed haddock, seafood fra diavolo, chicken marsala and filet mignon oscar typify the choices.

Starters are as traditional as fruit cup and shrimp cocktail and as contemporary as a lobster-stuffed portobello mushroom, and asparagus, provolone and prosciutto in puff pastry.

(207) 925-3008 or (877) 698-4667. Entrées, $18 to $24. Dinner, Tuesday-Saturday 5 to 9 Memorial Day to Columbus Day, Saturday in winter.

   
Material excerpted from Inn Spots & Special Places in New England,
by Nancy and Richard Woodworth. Copyright 2004.

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