The Berkshires
Diversions

Norman Rockwell Museum at Stockbridge, Route 183, Stockbridge.

The world's largest collection of original art by America's favorite illustrator is on display here. The museum moved from the Old Corner House in town to a new $5 million building on the 36-acre Linwood estate along the Housatonic River in the Glendale section. Nine galleries display more than 570 original paintings and drawings by the artist, who lived his last 25 years in town and made its scenes and people his subjects. Both guided and unguided tours are scheduled. The artist's studio was moved to the site from the center of Stockbridge and was re-created as he left it. The museum also includes changing exhibits of Stockbridge memorabilia and a gift shop that does a land-office business, including the sale of some 30,000 reproductions annually of Rockwell's painting of Stockbridge's Main Street at Christmas.

(413) 298-4100. www.nrm.org. Open daily 10 to 5, May-October; Monday-Friday 10 to 4 and weekends 10 to 5, rest of year. Adults, $10.

 

Chesterwood Estate & Museum , 4 Williamsville Road, Stockbridge.

The secluded estate of sculptor Daniel Chester French, famed for the Minute Man in Concord and the Seated Lincoln in Washington, has been open to the public since his daughter donated it in 1969 to the National Trust for Historic Preservation. Visitors start at a gallery in the old cow barn, where many of French's sculptures are shown. But the house and studio are the gems of Chesterwood. The 30-room Colonial revival built in 1900 is where French spent six months a year until he died there in 1931. Gracious rooms flank the wonderfully wide, full-length hall in which a summer breeze cools the visitor. One interesting item among many is a rose from Lincoln's casket. In the 22-foot-high studio you can see French's plaster-cast models of the Seated Lincoln and a graceful Andromeda, which he was working on at his death. It's placed on a flatcar on a 40-foot-long railroad track and wheeled outdoors occasionally so schoolchildren can see, as French did, how a sculpture looks in natural light. The front of the studio with a corner fireplace, couch and piano is where he entertained frequent guests; in back is a piazza with wisteria vines and concord grapes framing a view of Monument Mountain. Chesterwood's gift shop is worth a visit. You also may stroll along easy trails in a hemlock forest carpeted with needles.

(413) 298-3579. www.chesterwood.org. Open May-October, daily 10 to 5. Adults $8.50, children $3.

 Naumkeag, 5 Prospect Hill Road, Stockbridge.

Many admire the interior of this 26-room, Norman-style gabled mansion built in 1886 by McKim, Mead and White for Joseph H. Choate, lawyer for the Rockefeller family and ambassador to the Court of St. James. Chinese export porcelain, rare Persian rugs, Murano glass and family portraits by John Singer Sargent are part of the Choate family collection found throughout the house. We like it best for the lavish hillside landscaping and gardens inspired by Choate's daughter Mabel, who devoted her life to philanthropy, collecting art and nurturing Naumkeag. She combined her talents with Fletcher Steele, the preeminent landscape architect, to produce a private world of terraces, walkways, sculpted topiary, fountains and even a Chinese pagoda in twelve distinct garden areas. In a cool Venetian garden, water trickles from a tiny fountain; a stream cascades beside the steps in a grove of birch trees. The sculpture in the gardens befits Mabel Choate's interest in the arts.

 (413) 298-3239. Open Memorial Day to Columbus Day, daily 10 to 5. Adults $8, children $2.50. Gardens only, $6.


Tanglewood, West Street, Lenox.

The name is synonymous with music and Lenox. The summer home of the Boston Symphony Orchestra since 1936, the 210-acre estate above the waters of Stockbridge Bowl in the distance is an idyllic spot for concerts and socializing at picnics. The 6,000 seats in the open-air Shed are reserved far in advance for Friday and Saturday evening and Sunday afternoon concerts. Up to 10,000 fans can be accommodated at $14 to $18 each on the lawn (bring your own chairs, blankets, picnics and wine, or pick something up from the cafeteria). Free open rehearsals for the Sunday concerts are scheduled Saturday mornings at 10:30. The acoustically spectacular Seiji Ozawa Hall seats 1,200 inside and another 200 on sloping lawns so situated that you can see right onto the stage. It's used for chamber music concerts and student recitals most weeknights in summer and for community events in spring and fall.

(413) 637-1940 or (800) 274-8499. Concerts, Friday and Saturday at 8:30, Sunday at 2:30, last weekend of June through August. Tickets, $14 to $90. 

The Mount Estate & Gardens, 2 Plunkett St., Lenox.

Like Jefferson's Monticello, novelist Edith Wharton’s Mount is an "autobiographical house." It was designed by its owner – a Renaissance woman whose graces in the art of living made her the Martha Stewart of her day – as a compelling reflection of her storied life and work. Restored to the tune of $9 million so far, one of the icons of American architecture is on display as never before. For its centennial in 2002, seven top designers furnished the stunning public rooms "in the style of Edith Wharton,” as if she were their client today. In 2003, the bedroom suite – the private sanctum where the first woman to win the Pulitzer Prize for literature wrote each morning – was opened to public view. She designed and built the 42-room Georgian Revival mansion based on the principles outlined in her best-selling 1897 book The Decoration of Houses, which is still in print today. The 50-acre estate combines English, French and Italian elements in a classic New England setting above Laurel Lake. It includes three acres of formal gardens in the Italian style, a stable, a bookstore and the Terrace Café, which is open seasonally for light lunch and refreshments on the same terrace where Wharton entertained the likes of Henry James and the Vanderbilts. “It is an exquisite and marvelous place,” James wrote, a precursor to what visitors find today.

(413) 637-1899. www.edithwharton.org. Open May-October, daily 9 to 5. Adults, $16.

 

Frelinghuysen Morris House & Studio, 92 Hawthorne St., Lenox.

Set back down a ten-minute walk on 46 acres next to Tanglewood is this relatively new cultural prize. It was the summer home of opera singer Suzy Frelinghuysen and painter George L.K. Morris, both key members of the American Abstract Artists Group, who championed Cubism long after it went out of style. Morris designed the striking, Bauhaus-inspired structure. Preserved as it was in the early 1940s, the tiered white house harbors paintings, murals and sculptures by Picasso, Braque, Léger and Gris as well as the late owners’ own works and those of American Cubist friends. Guides lead hourly tours to help immerse the visitor into the artists’ pre-World War II world, when championing abstract art was highly controversial. Walking trails in the woodlands surrounding the house museum lead past a monumental sculpture, “The Mountain,” a reclining woman on a raised platform that Morris commissioned from his friend Gaston Lachaise.

(413) 637-0166. www.frelinghuysen.org. Hourly tours Thursday-Sunday 10 to 4, July 4 to Labor Day, Thursday-Saturday through October. Adults, $9.

 
Ventford Hall/Museum of the Gilded Age,
104 Walker St., Lenox.

A new museum is emerging in Ventfort Hall, the imposing Elizabethan-style mansion built in 1893 for Sarah Morgan, the sister of J.P. Morgan. Partially restored and open for tours, it is reflective of the 75 so-called “Berkshire Cottages” built in Lenox around the turn of the last century when the village became a Gilded Age resort. Through lectures, exhibits, theatrical performances and special events, the museum interprets the great changes that occurred in American life, industry and society during the late Nineteenth Century.

(413) 637-3206. Guided tours daily on the hour from 10 to 2, Memorial Day through October. Adults, $8.
 

Material excerpted from New England's Best, by Nancy and Richard Woodworth, copyright 2002, and Inn Spots & Special Places in New England, by Nancy and Richard Woodworth. Copyright 2004.

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