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Edgartown By Nancy and Richard Woodworth One of the best things about visiting an island is the ferry ride over from the mainland. The ringing of ships' bells, the whistle as you depart, the hustle and bustle of getting cars on and off – they all add to the anticipation of what is to come. Even though the trip to Martha's Vineyard from Wood's Hole takes less than an hour, that's time enough to listen to the buoys clanking, and to watch one shore fade in the distance and another grow closer. It's time enough also for a transition – to leave mainland cares behind, before arriving at Vineyard Haven or Oak Bluffs and stepping into a different milieu. The Vineyard is nothing if not varied. Oak Bluffs, where the many-splendored gingerbread cottages present a rainbow of hues, is a Methodist campground, Victorian beach resort and summer home to upper-class blacks. At the other end of the island are the Indian-owned restaurants and shops atop windswept Gay Head, its cliffs a mosaic of colors and an Eastern mini-version of the Big Sur. In the interior of West Tisbury and Chilmark, the landscape is such that you might not even think you were on an island. Then there's Edgartown, as up-to-date as a resort town can be while still reflecting a heritage back to 1642. It's a prosperous seaport village, which boomed during the whaling days of the 19th century and became a yachting center in the 20th century. It's been in the news lately during summer visits by President Clinton and entourage. Long a retreat for the rich and famous as well as the rich and not-so-famous, Edgartown is best appreciated in the off-season. The crowds are gone, but the charm remains as benign autumn weather lingers at least through Thanksgiving. The beaches are deserted except for strollers. The waters are left for the fishermen and a few hardy sailors and wind-surfers. Cottages and condos are battened down for the winter. Autumn is the season that islanders and knowing visitors look forward to, particularly in Edgartown, a year-round haven for retirees and escapees from the mainland. Many inns and restaurants remain open most of the year, but prices are reduced. You can be near the ocean in a moderate clime, and immerse yourself in a delightful community. "Fall for Martha's Vineyard," the magazine ads entice in trying to boost autumn trade. It's hard to imagine how anyone wouldn't. Material excerpted from Inn Spots & Special Places in New England, by Nancy and Richard Woodworth. Copyright 2004. Wood Pond Press E-mail feedback to: Home
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