Rockport
Diversions

The Seashore. Rockport is aptly named – its harbor and shoreline have the rocky look of the Maine coast, in contrast with the sand dunes associated with most of the Massachusetts shore. Country lanes lined with wild flowers interspersed between interesting homes hug the coast and crisscross the headlands in the area south of town known as Land's End. We like the California look of Cape Hedge Beach from the heights at the end of South Street, the twin lighthouses on Thatchers Island as viewed from Marmion Way, and the glimpses of yachts from the narrow streets along the water in quaint Annisquam.

Swimming is fine at Front and Back beaches in the center of town, the expansive Good Harbor Beach near the Gloucester line, the relatively unknown Cape Hedge and Pebble beaches at Land's End, and the Lanesville beach north of town. Parking can be a problem, but we've always lucked out.

Halibut Point State Park, Gott Avenue (off Route 27), Pigeon Cove. On a clear day, you can see Crane's Beach in Ipswich, the Isles of Shoals off the coast of New Hampshire and Mount Agamenticus in Maine from this 54-acre park along the rocky coast. In the middle of the park is an abandoned, water-filled quarry from which tons of granite made their way to some of the more notable buildings across the Northeast. The granite ledges left behind are stunning. Guided tours and demonstrations about the quarry are given weekends in season. A restored World War II fire-control tower ­– the only one of its kind open to the public along the New England Coast – houses the park’s visitor center. The park is popular with picnickers, hikers and sunbathers. Open daily 8 to 8, Memorial Day to Labor Day; parking, $2. Open sunrise to sunset, rest of year.

Bearskin Neck. The rocky peninsula that juts into the harbor was the original fishing and commercial center of the town. Today, most of the weather-beaten shacks have been converted into shops and eateries of every description. Glimpses of Sandy Bay and the Inner Harbor pop up like a changing slide show between buildings and through shop doors and windows; arty photo opportunities abound. The rocky point at the end of the neck provides a panoramic view, or you can rest on a couple of benches off T-Wharf and admire Motif No. 1 – the Rockport Rotary Club sign beckons, “This little park is just for you, come sit a while and enjoy the view.”

Shopping. Most of Bearskin Neck's enterprises cater more to tourists than residents, and T-shirt and souvenir shops abound, although Joan’s Rainbow Legend and James Russell Goldsmiths appeal to those looking for jewelry, and a great garden draws passerby to Earth’s Treasures. Main Street and the Dock Square area generally have useful stores, including the town’s first “chain store,” the resorty apparel shop Mark Fore & Strike. Colorful fused glass plates in the window drew us into Square Circle, where we marveled at incredible porcelain depictions of antipasto platters, fruit salad and the like, done by a woman from Virginia. We also liked the wares at Too Fortunate Pottery. The Madras Shop, Enchanted Lady and Sand Castles are known for clothing. Proceeds from the well-stocked Toad Hall Bookstore in the old Granite Savings Bank building further environmental causes. Interesting casual clothing and jewelry are offered at Willoughby's, which has a cozy café in back.

Hannah Wingate House, two shops across the street from each other, and Woodbine Antiques are among the better antiques shops. The Granite Shore Gallery specializes in maritime art, decoys and fishing collectibles. Other good galleries include An Artful Touch and Mosher Gallery. New England Goods also caught our eye.

The Art Galleries. For many, art is Rockport's compelling attraction, and by 1900 the town had become the place for artists to spend the summer painting. More than 200 artists make the town their home, and 29 galleries are listed in the Rockport Fine Arts Gallery Guide. The 80-year-old Rockport Art Association, with exhibitions and demonstrations in its large headquarters at 12 Main St., is a leader in its field. You could wander for hours through places like Paul Strisik's slick gallery next to the art association or Geraci Galleries in a 1725 complex of buildings at 6 South St.

Concerts. The summer Sunday evening concerts presented at 7:30 by the Rockport Legion Band at the outdoor bandstand near Back Beach have been a Cape Ann summer tradition since 1932. A few of the original members remain active today, providing stirring concert marches, overtures and selections from Broadway musicals under the stars. The annual Rockport Chamber Music Festival presents performances Thursday-Sunday in June in the Rockport Art Association’s main gallery. Other than these, the best entertainment in town may well be, as a couple of guests at Eden Pines Inn put it, “sitting on Dock Square and watching the world go by.”

Museums. The Sandy Bay Historical Society and Museum shows early furnishings and exhibits on shipping, fishing, the local granite industry and Rockport history in the 1832 Sewall-Scripture House built of granite at 40 King St., a new wing and in the Old Castle, a 1715 saltbox on Granite Street (open Monday-Saturday 2 to 5 in summer, $3). The James Babson Cooperage Shop (1658) on Route 127 just across the Gloucester line, a small one-story brick structure with early tools and furniture, may be the oldest building on Cape Ann (Tuesday-Sunday 2 to 5 in summer, free). In Pigeon Cove at 52 Pigeon Hill St. is the Paper House, built 50 years ago of 215 thicknesses of specially treated newspapers; chairs, desks, tables, lamps and other furnishings also are made of paper (daily 10 to 5, April to mid-October, $1.50).

Like the rest of Rockport, its museums are low-key. But you only have to go next door to Gloucester to see two of New England's stellar showplaces.

Beauport, 75 Eastern Point Blvd., Gloucester.
Interior designer Henry David Sleeper started building his summer home in 1907 to house his collection of decorative arts and furnishings. Most of the 40 rooms are small, but each is decorated in a different style or period with a priceless collection of objects. Twenty-six are open to the public. Sleeper designed several rooms to house specific treasures: the round, two-story Tower Library was built to accommodate a set of carved wooden draperies from a hearse; the Octagon Room was built to match an eight-sided table. One of the breakfast tables in the Golden Step Room is right against a window that overlooks Gloucester Harbor.
(978) 283-0800. Guided tours 10 to 4, Monday-Friday mid-May to mid-September, daily mid-September to mid-October. Adults, $10.

Hammond Castle Museum, 80 Hesperus Ave., Gloucester.
Cross the drawbridge and be serenaded by pre-recorded organ music in this replica of a medieval castle, built in the late 1920s by inventor John Hays Hammond Jr. to house his collection of Roman, medieval and Renaissance art and objects. Visitors view the largest organ ever built in a private home. Its 8,200 pipes rise eight stories above the cathedral-like Great Hall. Also on view are the unusual Renaissance dining room, Gothic and early American bedrooms, and an exhibit showing some of the inventions and patent models of a man reputed to be America’s greatest inventor after Thomas Edison. Marbled columns and lush plantings watered by the castle's own rain system are on view in the Courtyard.
(978) 283-7673. Open daily 10 to 5, Memorial Day to Labor Day; Saturday-Sunday 10 to 3, rest of year. Adults, $8.


Material excerpted from Inn Spots & Special Places in New England, by Nancy and Richard Woodworth. Copyright 2004.

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