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Rockport
Emerson Inn By the Sea
1 Cathedral Ave.
Rockport, MA 01966

White pillars grace the front entrance and rockers are lined up facing the ocean on the back porch of this recently renovated and renamed Federal-style inn, formerly the Ralph Waldo Emerson and long owned by the Wemys family of Yankee Clipper Inn fame. Bruce and Michele Coates, who were part owners of restaurants in Florida, bought the faded inn in 1999,  refurbished the rooms and kept the place open year-round.

The inn is typical of a number of old-fashioned establishments in Rockport, but this one has been infused with a new energy and spirit – though the upgrading process was daunting and unending. The rooms are in two sections on several levels, none of which seem to connect with the others, and reflect their 160-year-old heritage. One corner ocean-view room we saw had a king bed, two arm chairs, a desk, a bureau and rather drab decor. More cheerful in rose colors and florals was a front room with a double and a twin poster bed. Furnishings are 19th-century antiques and reproductions.

The prime accommodations are eleven deluxe ocean-view rooms, decorated to the period. All have kingsize beds and spa tubs. Two have small electric fireplaces and two have balconies – the one with both is “the best room in the house,” says Bruce.

The spacious “grand salon” lobby holds a grand piano and a buffet table with a platter of cookies and coffee and lemonade in thermos jugs. Breakfast and dinner are served in The Grand Café (see Dining Spots). A full breakfast is included in the rates in season; breakfast is continental in the off-season.

The broad rear lawn leads to a small saltwater swimming pool at the edge of the ocean bluff.

(978) 546-6321 or (800) 964-5550. Fax (978) 546-7043. E-mail: inn@emersoninnbythesea.com

For more information: www.emersoninnbythesea.com.

Thirty-six rooms with private baths. May-October: doubles, $145 to $349. Rest of year: $95 to $279. Two-night minimum weekends in season.


Material excerpted from Inn Spots & Special Places in New England, by Nancy and Richard Woodworth. Copyright 2004
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