Canandaigua/
Bristol Hills
Dining Spots

Lincoln Hill Inn
3365 East Lake Road, Canandaigua

Everybody's favorite restaurant hereabouts is Lincoln Hill, and with good reason. It has a grand setting on a hillside overlooking Canandaigua Lake within earshot of the outdoor Finger Lakes Performing Arts Center shell. It has tables inside and out. It has an extensive menu. And the food is consistently good.

Cheryl and Bill Ward, who were teaching at Monroe Community College in Rochester, bought the 1804 brick homestead and converted it into a large restaurant, opening fortuitously in 1983 on the same day as the arts center shell. Inside are several small, cozy dining rooms with pastel linens, antique lace curtains and soft lighting. One room is strung with little white lights. A lounge contains remarkable modern American primitive paintings of the lake and the area as it was in the latter part of the 19th century by Adelaide Cook Kent, who was influenced by Rufus Porter.

But it was the open front porch with its white-over-floral clothed tables, citronella candles and fresh field flowers to which we were attracted on a summer's evening. It, plus an enclosed side porch and a back patio called the Garden Room, seat 120, half again more than the number inside. For dinner, you can order light: an appetizer and a dinner salad, the day’s comfort-food offering (perhaps an open-face prime rib sandwich or baked meat loaf with gravy) or a “demi-dinner,” a smaller portion of selected entrées. Or you can order grilled Jamaican jerk-spiced tuna, Louisiana jambalaya, crab-stuffed jumbo shrimp, sesame chicken, duckling à l’orange, veal piccata or filet mignon.

Dinners come with a garden salad but we’d spring for the signature mandarin orange and walnut salad with an excellent honey-poppyseed dressing. We liked the tender calves liver, grilled with onions and bacon, and the prime rib, a thick slab with horseradish sauce. The ample plates, garnished with edible nasturtiums from the gardens out back, yielded potatoes or rice, garlic cloves and zucchini stuffed with vegetables and cheese. French chocolate decadence is one of the good desserts.

(585) 394-8254. www.lincolnhillinn.com. Entrées, $17.95 to $28.95. Dinner nightly in July and August, from 5; Tuesday-Sunday from 5, rest of year. Also closed Sundays in winter.

 Casa de Pasta
125 Bemis St., Canandaigua

People come from miles around for the pasta in this red brick townhouse at the edge of downtown, we were advised. And the restaurant received the highest rating from a Rochester newspaper reviewer.

Chef-owner Dominick Dardano's six pastas are fairly standard, except perhaps for the Italian platter for two including an antipasto, flatbread and a platter of lasagna, stuffed shells, meatballs and housemade Italian sausage.

Entrées run from whitefish marinara to shrimp scampi and filet mignon. Veal parmesan, pork pizziola and chicken marsala are menu fixtures. The starter of crispy calamari with marinara sauce and the beef braciole stuffed with prosciutto and parmesan come highly recommended.

Diners enter through a convivial bar. Beyond are two intimate, noisy dining rooms with pine wainscoting and red and white oilcloths and curtains – a spirited place for regulars who relish homemade Italian cuisine.

(585) 394-3710. www.casa-de-pasta.com. Entrées, $11.95 to $19.95. Dinner nightly, 5 to 9:30 or 10.

 Koozinas
669 South Main St., Canandaigua

A fish is sculpted out of the wall at the entry and waves ripple across the walls of this ultra-colorful restaurant with a mod nautical look. It takes its name from the Greek word for kitchen, according to chef-owner George Stamatis.

There's a lot to look at in the large, high-ceilinged space that once housed a Wegman’s supermarket: faux columns, colorful angles, a tiled kitchen and hanging fisherman lamps from Greece.

“We tried to give it flair,” says George, whose food follows suit. He, a chef and six cooks man the open grill, producing a wide variety of wood-fired pizzas, pastas, panini, salatas and the like. The choices are staggering. You might start with bruschetta, polenta portobello, spanakopita or calamari salad. A cup of soup and half a panini sandwich makes a light supper. So does one of the thin-crust pizzas, or any of the dozen pastas, from pignoli with banana peppers and ziti to scallops sautéed with spinach, diced tomatoes, black olives, feta cheese and fusilli.

Main courses are fewer in number, but cover the bases: grilled shrimp with vegetables, wood-fired chicken topped with mozzarella, twin veal chops and Grecian T-bone steak topped with kalamata olives, plum tomatoes and scallions.

George makes most of the desserts, among them baklava, kahlua torte, berry tart and tiramisu.

(585) 396-0360. Entrées, $11.50 to $14.75. Open Monday-Saturday, 11 to 10. Sunday, noon to 10.

 Nicole's Dining Room
770 South Main St., Canandaigua

Taken over by the owners of Canandaigua Wine Co., the old Sheraton Inn was renamed the Canandaigua Inn on the Lake. They redid some guest rooms, but concentrated their efforts on the dining operation. An innovative chef elevated the fare, and the elegant dining room with upholstered armchairs, shaded candles and fanned napkins atop service plates is quite stylish. Big windows look onto the lake.

For dinner, expect such entrées as grilled salmon with roasted shallot-citrus vinaigrette, paella, twin pork chops topped with a spiced rum-cider glaze, roasted duck with peach glaze and pistachio-crusted rack of lamb with sweet vermouth cream sauce. Starters could be lobster cocktail with citrus crème fraîche, shrimp or beef quesadillas and grilled portobello mushroom layered with prosciutto, roasted red peppers and mozzarella. Locals like the restaurant’s lakeside terrace called the Sandbar for a summer lunch. The lounge is known as Baco’s wine bar. 

(585) 394-7800 or (800) 228-2801. Entrées, $16 to $25. Lunch, 11 to 4. Dinner, 5 to 9 or 10.


Material excerpted from Inn Spots & Special Places / Mid-Atlantic,
by Nancy and Richard Woodworth. Copyright 2003.

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