State College
The Happy Valley

By Nancy and Richard Woodworth

They call it Happy Valley, this long and lush valley nestled beneath Mount Nittany – a contented, rather inaccessible enclave that retains something of a Brigadoon-like innocence amidst the mountains in central Pennsylvania.

The Pennsylvania State University transformed its hometown into a burgeoning metropolis from its early years as center of the most important ironmaking region in the country. Penn State and the surrounding town are inevitably linked. Think of State College and most think of football weekends and the Nittany Lions. The university’s 40,000 students equal the population of all State College.

Although Penn State is the dominant presence in the valley, the valley is more than Penn State. The valley’s lure is so strong that it calls many alumni to make it their home. “This is a pulse point of the world, like a vortex,” suggests Cheryl Bohn, who was drawn from Pittsburgh to take over one of the area’s many new B&Bs.

There’s much to appeal to visitors as well as residents, especially at times other than football weekends. That’s when upwards of 100,000 fans turn the valley into a happy (if the Lions win) homecoming circus –the biggest by far in the East.

To the north of State College is Bellefonte, the prosperous Centre County seat, founded on ironmaking and home to seven governors. The Victorian treasures in its National Register historic district prompt some to call it “The Cape May of the Mountains.”

To the east is Boalsburg, an historic village that defines the word quaint in Pennsylvania terms. It’s the birthplace of Memorial Day and home to a house museum with the nation’s closest ties to discoverer Christopher Columbus.

All around are mountains, streams and lakes that make this a happy place for recreation. Spring Creek is a fly fisherman’s paradise. America’s only all-water cavern can be toured by motorboat. Stone Valley Recreation Area is the center of hiking and boating activity.

“The Happy Valley is a 1970s thing,” says one local booster. “It sounds like something we should have recovered from, but haven’t.”

In 1990, Garth Brooks earned $4,000 when he pinch-hit for an entertainer at the Centre County Grange Fair. In 1997, he made millions at five sold-out concerts in Penn State’s sparkling new Bryce Jordan Center.

Mae McQuade, dean of the area’s innkeepers, cites the change as “a metaphor for our happy valley. We are a treasure waiting to be discovered.”

Material excerpted from Inn Spots & Special Places / Mid-Atlantic, by Nancy and Richard Woodworth. Copyright 2008.

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