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Restaurant of the Week
When the weather warms up, For a ringside seat on the The setting matches the trendy food that’s architectural as well as unusual. Ex-Manhattan chef Timothy Kelly, who has been with owner Dimitri Kriticos since Café Nuovo opened, calls the cuisine fusion. At a springtime lunch, we adored a couple of appetizers: the nime chow shrimp rolls with cellophane noodles, tiny vegetables and a lemongrass dipping sauce, and a chopped salad of cucumbers, tomatoes, asparagus, snap peas and more, standing tall in a radicchio cup. Both were as exciting to taste as to look at. Against these high-rise theatrics the low-rise smoked salmon club sandwich with side potato and tossed salads looked mundane, though it proved excellent. Dessert was a crystal bowl filled with fruit sorbets and ice creams, studded with a candy stick. For dinner, the chef traverses the world to
produce the likes of Szechwan-seared Hawaiian ahi tuna, ginger-crusted
salmon with key lime beurre blanc, (401) 421-2525. www.cafenuovo.com. Entrées,
$23.50 to $33.95. Lunch, Monday-Friday 11:30 to 3. Dinner,
Monday-Saturday, 5 to 10:30 or 11.
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