Craftsbury/Northeast Kingdom, VT
Dining Spots

Trellis
1165 North Craftsbury Road,
Craftsbury Common

Dinner at the sophisticated Inn on the Common is available to the public as well as inn guests, as new owners Jim and Judi Lamberti have sought to reach out to the community. 

The redecorated dining room is elegant as can be, with big windows onto an outdoor deck beside the rose garden. Twenty-five diners can be accommodated at two seatings. Dining is by candlelight, with candles flickering in hurricane chimneys on the tables and in reflective wall sconces.

Jim, who serves as chef, changes the short menu changes seasonally. It is available à la carte, a change from the prix-fixe format of the past and served at individual tables, rather than the large communal tables of days gone by.

Guests may enjoy cocktails and hors d'oeuvres in the library and parlor before adjourning to a dining room dignified by fine linens, china and crystal. At our latest autumn visit, the starters were butternut squash soup, curry-seared mahi mahi with ratatouille and a frisée and spinach salad with blue cheese, apples and dried cranberries.

Entrées, which come with a garden salad and fresh bread, included crispy duck breast with apricot-brandy sauce, seared filet mignon with truffle-bordelaise sauce, and venison loin with walnut demi-glace. Desserts were apple-cranberry crisp with ice cream or frozen chocolate mocha terrine with raspberry coulis.

Coffee and chocolates are available after dinner in the library, where guests like to linger over cordials.

The inn’s wine list is carefully chosen and affordable. 

(802) 586-9619 or (800) 521-2233. Entrées, $18.50 to $21.50. Dinner Thursday-Sunday, seatings 5:30 to 7:30 . Closed in April and November.

The Craftsbury Inn
107 South Craftsbury Road, Craftsbury

A handsome Atrium dining room overlooking spotlit gardens and upscale food commend this restaurant that's open to the public by reservation. Dining is at round tables set with linens, candles and fresh flowers in an elegant room with wainscoting and big windows onto the back yard.

Dinner is à la carte, and chef-owner Bill Maire changes his French/American menu seasonally. You might start with Canadian pea soup, warm beef tenderloin and wild mushroom salad, curried scallops in puff pastry, risotto with porcini mushrooms and goat cheese, or escargots bourguignonne. Main courses range from four-cheese tortellini to grilled rack of spring lamb. Choices include Maryland crab cakes, prosciutto-wrapped baked fillet of salmon, chicken vol-au-vent with mango sauce and beef tenderloin with wild mushroom ragu. Dessert could be Quebec apple cake, chocolate-raspberry tuxedo pie, New York cheesecake with amaretto or chambord, or maple waffle with ice cream and chocolate sauce.

Bill, who was wine and spirits manager for the Arizona Biltmore Resort & Spa, is naturally proud of his wine list. It reflects his preference for good wines at reasonable prices, especially those of undiscovered and underrated vineyards.

(802) 586-2848 or (800) 336-2848. Entrées, $16 to $22. Lunch in season, Tuesday-Saturday 11:30 to 2. Dinner by reservation, Tuesday-Saturday 5 to 9. Sunday brunch, 10 to 1. Afternoon tea, Saturday and Sunday 1 to 4. Closed April and first two weeks of November.

Rabbit Hill Inn
Lower Waterford, VT

The doors to the Rabbit Hill dining room are kept closed until the dinner hour, so that first-time inn guests will appreciate the drama of a candlelit room, silver gleaming atop burgundy mats on polished wood tables and napkins folded into pewter rings shaped like rabbits. Even the electrified lanterns and chandeliers look like candles. Miniature oil lamps and porcelain bunnies on each table lend to the charm. In the winter, the glow of the large fireplace adds to the allure.

Chef Jeffrey Fairman implements a seasonally changing, three-course menu in a style he calls “nouveau French country with a local flair.” It offers a choice of appetizer, soup, or salad, entrée, dessert and coffee or tea.

You know you are at Rabbit Hill when you are presented a loaf of oatmeal molasses bread served with butter cut in the shape of a bunny with a parsley tail.

The meal starts with an amuse bouche – perhaps a seared lamb carpaccio with truffle oil and merlot granita. That might be followed by a roulade of rabbit confit in puff pastry served with nicoise olive puree, date chutney and riesling butter. Crispy-skin cognac-marinated quail plated with a foie gras-quinoa filled pastry basket, wilted spinach, and balsamic syrup is another appetizer favorite. 

Then it is on to an entrée like pumpkin seed-crusted sea scallops with goat cheese whipped sweet potatoes, gingered salsify, and a pea and lavender tart with red wine pumpkin seed oil.

Chef Jeff does his own house aging of beef, which might be served with potatoes dauphine, spring pea puree, shallot-morel sauté, and truffle compound butter.

Jeff doubles as pastry chef with tantalizing dessert offerings such as warm blueberry strudel with cinnamon ice cream and a drizzle of orange caramel. Or perhaps you might prefer a dark chocolate pot du crème topped with fresh berries and chantilly cream. All the ice creams and sorbets are made in-house. In lieu of sweets, a sampling of international or locally made artisan cheeses with fruit and house made breads and crackers is offered.

Light jazz and standards play in the background. This is an elegant yet serene and unpretentious dining room – one in which no detail has been overlooked and solicitous service is well paced.

(802) 748-5168 or (800) 762-8669. Prix-fixe dinner, $44 for three courses. Dinner nightly by reservation starting at 6.  Closed early April and early November.

 

Highland Lodge
Caspian Lake Road,
Greensboro

Lunch on the front porch with a distant view of Caspian Lake is a summertime treat here, and we were surprised how many were enjoying it on a raw, dank day. The menu covers the basics, but the daily specials can get interesting: a warm spinach salad with grilled duck breast and a rabbit and ham stew with buttermilk biscuits and rainbow coleslaw at our visit. The problem was they'd run out of the spinach-duck salad and one special was sort of lacking: the borscht with Ma Smith's beets didn't seem like the real thing and its accompaniment, half a beer cheese and tomato sandwich on wheat bread, was rather strange-tasting. The sautéed sea scallops with snow peas on rice was much more successful.

The chefs create a new dinner menu each night, but the format stays the same. It features homemade soups and appetizers; salads with local greens and homemade dressings; and occasionally imaginative entrées and specials. Grilled black angus sirloin steak is a staple, but other entrées could be striped bass fillet spiced with pepper and lemon, grilled mustard-glazed chicken breast and maple-cured Vermont ham with apple chutney. Starters could be celery-apple soup with blue cheese mousse, fresh fruit cup or herbed goat cheese with provençal olives. For dessert, try the blueberry-lemon cream cake or chocolate cream pie.

Some people come here just for the lodge's special dessert hour, starting nightly at 7:30 . In addition to the specials, they go for things like chocolate mousse parfait, ishkabibble (brownie à la mode with hot fudge sauce) and something called forgotten dessert, a meringue with ice cream and strawberries. The lodge also has a short menu of lighter dinner fare. The L-shaped dining room with a wood stove is rustic and pretty in pink, but we'd choose the porch overlooking lake and sunset any time we could.

(802) 533-2647. Entrées, $20 to $23. Lunch in season, Tuesday-Sunday noon to 2. Dinner nightly by reservation, 6 to 8. Sunday brunch, 11 to 2. Closed mid-October to Christmas and mid-March to Memorial Day.

 Heermansmith Farm Inn
Heermansmith Farm Road, Coventry

Folks go out of their way for meals at this hard-to-find establishment along a dirt road west of Coventry . It’s the family home of Jack and Louise Smith, part of the Heerman family who have been dairy farmers here for five generations. The Smiths began serving ice cream to people who came to pick the strawberries in their fields. When someone suggested they should offer cross-country skiing in winter, they found that skiers wanted something to eat. So in 1982 the Smiths opened their 1860 home to guests in a homey yet elegant dining room and then began putting up guests overnight.

There is something immensely appealing about the dining experience at Heermansmith Farm. Perhaps it is the food. Perhaps it is the setting: glamorous, white-linened tables scattered about an open living room and dining room centered by a huge slate fireplace amid antiques and the glow of candles and kerosene lamps. Perhaps it is the good little wine list, amazingly priced from yesteryear.

Probably it is everything put together. The food is certainly the match for the stylish living-room setting. The short menu might start with haddock chowder, mushrooms sautéed in a sherried shallot cream sauce in puff pastry, or a strudel of Alaskan king crab, ementhaler cheese and grated potato. For main courses, how about the house specialty, roast duck with a strawberry and chambord sauce? Choices include salmon filet poached in court bouillon and served with a cucumber and yogurt herb sauce, butterflied shrimp stuffed with lobster and crabmeat, herb-crusted pork tenderloin with cabernet sauvignon sauce or grilled delmonico steak with mâitre d’ hotel butter or creamy horseradish sauce,

Desserts could be blueberry buckle, amaretto cheesecake with hazelnuts, french bread pudding with whiskey sauce, and puff pastry with lemon cream and fresh raspberries.

If you’ve planned ahead and don’t want to drive afterward, you could stay overnight in one of six guest rooms with private baths (doubles, $65 to $75, including a hearty breakfast).

(802) 754-8866. Entrées, $16.95 to $18.95. Dinner nightly, 5 to 9 . Closed Monday and Tuesday in off-season.

 

River Garden Cafe
427 Main St. (Route 114),
East Burke

Robert Baker, who owned a restaurant called Sofi in New York City , had been coming to the Northeast Kingdom on vacations for more than twenty years. New York got to be too much and he and David Thomas headed to East Burke in 1992 to open this café with gardens leading to the East Branch of the Sutton River in back. With the staff (including the owners) often in green striped shirts, a window seat full of pillows in the cozy front bar, a long screened back porch, a collection of kitschy salt  and pepper shakers, and "jadeite" tables from the '30s, it's quite offbeat and charming.

Chef Steven Hartwell’s “new culinary age” menu is fairly sophisticated for the area and the prices are right. You can snack on anything from bruschetta or artichoke dip to grilled shrimp caesar salad or a Jamaican jerk chicken salad with a spicy lime vinaigrette. Or go for filet mignon with a merlot sauce or grilled lamb loin with a sundried tomato-basil vinaigrette, the most expensive entrées on the menu that ranges from Mediterranean salmon and chicken Santa Fe to fajitas and pork medallions madeira. Salads, burgers, pizzas, vegetarian dishes and specials like warm duck salad with apricot-curry dressing and mango chutney often have the place full shortly after 5 o’clock.

Crème brûlée is a dessert specialty. Or you might find triple chocolate torte, seasonal fruit cobblers or a chipwich, two cookies centered with ice cream and topped with chocolate sauce and whipped cream.

(802) 626-3514.  Entrées, $15.95 to $21.95. Lunch, Wednesday-Saturday 11:30 to 2. Dinner, Wednesday-Sunday 5 to 9.  Sunday brunch, 11 to 2. Closed November and April.


Material excerpted from Inn Spots & Special Places in New England, by Nancy and Richard Woodworth. Copyright 2004.

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